Now I run all my straight pieces and this is what the profile looks like

Now the round over

I can change out my bit now and do the rabbet, starting with the radius. Here again, several passes need to be made to avoid chipping.

CAUTION! USE PUSH BLOCKS AND ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS. WHAT IS SHOWN IS NOT NECESSARILY THE SAFEST WAY, BUT WHAT I AM ACCUSTOMED TO AND IN NO WAY AM I ADVISING THE VIEWER TO FOLLOW THIS METHOD. TO DO SO, YOU ARE ASSUMING ALL RISKS FOR ANY PERSONAL INJURY THAT MAY OCCUR.

This is a 1/4" rabbet, and was completed in 3 passes and here's what it looks like in the door. Of course.... now the straight pieces need to be cut, and everything needs to be hand sanded now to blend in to one another.

When installing these moldings, its best to draw a line across the whole door so all the joints line up at the same place.

Door sanded, moldings made, almost ready but before molding can be attached, the door as to be checked for flatness. It would be so nice just to run a door through a 36" drum sander and be done with it, but unfortunately that's a bit out of reach maybe for this lifetime ;-)

But none the less, a surface has to be flat for moldings and sometimes a beltsander might not be enough. For smoothing and leveling I bought this handcrafted beech wooden plane a while back from Clark & Williams. I always had a fascination for wooden planes, but it seemed there was always something else that would come up and the plane was put on hold. It was probably better in the long run and have one that would be truly a usable tool rather than some collector item on a shelf to be admired. I got the plane especially for projects such as this, where I could take down high spots without chipping or worrying about grain directions, or what type wood I was working with. Adjust the thickness of shaving and just listen to the whisper. This plane is also good on curly maples, and breezing through without tearing or chipping the surface. You can take it down to as fine as 1/4the the thickness of a dollar bill. A truly amazing tool and I "Highly" recommend this smoothing plane for the discriminate woodworker striving for perfection

Anyhow..... using a straight edge, I found a few area's the needed to come down. Not noticeable by eye in its unfinished state, no doubt the waviness would appear with the finish, or shadows under the picture frame moldings and then it would be to late.

The shavings are so thin that its hard to imagine what a pleasure working with a wooden plane can be. Not to boast, but I'm pretty good with a belt sander. Can get things down to where it would be hard to detect it was done by hand. Picture says a thousand words....... what I would have probably let go years ago, I can get it down so much flatter. I can't say enough about this precision wooden plane, except maybe this being like a scalpel in a surgeons hand.........this plane is to a woodworker wanting the ultimate results.

Leveling out of the way, now I'll gibe the entire door another good sanding. I didn't think I could get use to this hose sanding business...... but Festool sure makes it easy especially with the hose flexibility and reach on both the sander cord and hose.

Now I'm ready to install the radius moldings. The first thing is to draw a pencil line even from the top and located right where the dividing stile meets the top rail. Next I place the moldings in the opening, then transfer the lines on all 4 points so all the joints will be in alignment. The cut will be just a straight cut and best done on the bandsaw, leaving the line when cutting

Once cut, now its over to my edge sander to get it perfectly even on both ends

Place the moldings in and clamp on the line drawn earlier. I found that by moving the straight edge under all 4 ends, it makes them align perfectly. Once clamped in place, now I cut the other moldings starting with the bottom one first. The reason being that it should be the same width as the top at its widest point so the miters will fit well with any gaps. Once the bottom and tops are in, clamp them in place and cut the two side pieces. There might have to be sanding on these moldings to make adjustments for millings, and now is the time to take care of any sanding before nailing into place with a brad gun through the side profile.

All the molding fitted and placed, now I stick a few brads and once the entire side is done, then I'll run a glue bead around every opening from the inside with PL construction adhesive to beef up the fastening before the glass is installed.

Finally got to empty out my first bad of debris from my extractor. Man..... this is so much nicer than emptying that wet and dry shop vac! Notice the cap that comes with the bag so dust doesn't fly all over the place

This is the final profile of the picture frame molding

A little sanding of the joint, and this side is completed

Now to cut the door to size before I get to far along. I size the door only after its been glued. The reason is that the finished size ends up square and true. Milling parts like stiles to length first, almost always ends up with some unevenness and has to be sanded with a belt sander. By cutting, everything is nice and even, and with the right blade, no sanding needed, This is why I like Festool. Make a mark, lay the guide right dead on the mark and cut. No allowances for anything. The rail clamps are inserted in a grove on the underside and clamp in place.

I leave the extractor in a central place where I do most assembling, and the hose and cord reaches everything. Boxes are stacked out of the way, so when I want to cut........ open the saw box, sand? just open and plug in. Pretty efficient having everything. The guide has a rail the saw sits on, so the cut is dead accurate just as if it came off the table saw. The blade on it is a 60 tooth carbide, and gives an absolute smooth cut requiring no sanding at all. No mess, and once done it simply goes back in the gray box under my miter station.