This is looking down at one of the corners. I use a Log Hog screw to tighten the joint here, then I'll place another on the opposite log to lock it down. It isn't going nowhere!
I also use a Log Hog to pull the joints in tight. Does and excellent job!
This is a top view of an opening. I put a slash cut at 4", the width of window nailers I'll add to hang the window
It takes 2 cuts with this 12" DeWalt, to do an cuts. First on one side, then flip over to finish. Its hit or miss with the log irregularity
Logs vary in thickness, and shape. To have consistency to some degree, I scribe the previous log end then take it down and shave it to my scribed line
I use the Festool power plane to remove what I need
Then the Festool sander to knock down ridges left by the plane. I sand first with a 40 grit, then 60 then 80. It goes pretty quick with the paper progressions and I sand the contour as apposed to lengthwise.
This is the compression on the seal using the Log Hog
Another view
Walls are getting high enough now to use a step ladder to have better control; of the drill. The 1/2" drill is nothing to take for granted, as it will keep going and if you don't have a good hold, it will snap a wrist painfully!
An over all view of this 24' x 32' building
I've gone long enough without uprights and time to add some. They are needed to keep the logs in line with one another......otherwise, the wall takes small buckles and weaves in and out. I'll go on the outside and spot some PL construction adhesive in joints to help stabilize, then cover with chinking caulk (Log Builder). My original direction to the wall finish was to sheet rock over the wall to add brightness to the area. If walls would be exposed, I would have used full cut logs, rather than leave a few rounded edges inside. I figured it didn't matter all that much out in the shop. Still out to lunch on whether I'll sheet rock or not.
