
Contrary to popular believe, rags are not the way to put on an oil stain. Rags are used in the wiping process and that's where it counts. I leave my stain on just long enough till I start seeing places of evaporation or drying, then I start wiping. Note the drying in the very center.

The stain evens out in the wiping, and most important........ wipe "with" the grain, and not any old way. I'll use one rag to get most of it up, then go back over with a clean or not so soaked rag for a final wipe. Best wear an apron, and throw away gloves as this is a messy process

In spraying, I will use a lacquer sanding sealer (3 coats) and 2 top coats of a an acrylic semi gloss. First, I thin my sanding sealer by 30% and try a scrap piece first to see if I have the right mix. I generally keep a 1/4" x 4' sheet stained, and ready. Lean it so that if your mix is to thin, you'll see the runs here first rather than on the project.

Once my 1st coat is down, I sand with 320 very lightly to knock down any grain whiskers. On this project, I'll add a toner to deepen the Mahogany color and even it out. My second sealer coat will have the toner. This toner is an alcohol toner that can be used with lacquers.
I'm not concerned over the center case blend, as it will be entirely covered with display artwork

To use toners successfully, you have to plan the shoot so there are no overlapping strokes so there won't be any darker area's than others

Once the toner coat is complete, then I spray another sealer coat and sand this one lightly once again so as not to cut into the toning coat. I'll sand that coat and spray on my two top coats for protection.


Now for the glass. This project involves changing out the art work frequently and plate glass would be pretty heavy so Plexiglas was a better option. Even better was the Polycarbonate type glass, as its is much tougher, clearer and looks more like glass than regular plexi. Of course, the glass has to be cut to fit, and edges treated and here's how I do it.
First I cut a pattern from 1/4" plywood with all the fitting that needs to be done so there are no adjustments later. Once that's done, I trace out the pattern on the Poly sheet, leaving it oversized about 1/4" all around the entire diameter. The sheet has a protective coating, and best to leave it on till the work is complete to prevent scratching. This is another instance this Festool saw system came in real nice! Their blade has a super fine cut, and guiding along the guide, there is no side to side movement causing chipping or large teeth marks on the edge. There are some slight marks, but can easily be taken cared of.

This saw system is a sure fire way to get cuts right on the money, as the guide is set right on the cut line and there is no variation whatsoever in the final cut. The cut and fit completed, now I use a laminate flush cutting bit with the pattern clamped under for the bearing to guide on, and trim the edge. Make absolutely sure the clamps are really holding well before you start! I used wood screw type clamps, so that pressure applied wouldn't be concentrated and crack the glass.

The laminate bit will trim the edge really smooth as silk. I then remove the clamps and pattern, and use a 1/8 round over that is permanently left in my Makitta I generally use for rounding wood parts. Careful attention has to be paid here. There is only 1/4" material that will guide the bearing, and all I'm doing is taking a slight shape to the edge, and not a full round.

Once this side is completed, I flip it over and do the other. Once both edges have been done, Now I use a sanding block and make a quick pass along the edge to remove any seem that might be present with 150 grit paper.

Now I can peel off the protective sheet, making sure I have something under so the table top and any slight debris is trapped to scratch the surface. Now I take a torch, this happens to be mapp gas, but regular propane could also be used. This will polish the edge real nice by going side to side with the open flame, making sure not to stay in one place to long.

Once the edges are done, I'll pass the sanding block lightly over any seem I might have missed, and flame once more and its done.





